I’ll try to update this document as I go along in the build. It will become very tedious, so odds are I won’t be able to do the WHOLE build.
Stories about the boat:
- Clean up workshop making sure there is enough room for both length and width. Also, be aware how much space you have for plywood storage. I don’t have much, so can only buy a few sheets at a time. Setting Up a Garage for a New Build – Building Day One – Day 2
- Build strongback. Building Boat Right Side Up on Strongback
- On your first sheet of plywood, layout the dimension for one of the rear backbones. Don”t include the upper section. We will deal with that in another way. Day 3 – Day 4 – Day 5
- The two pieces that have blue dots represent the two pieces of the first REAR BACKBONE. Note that I have added a 53cm strip at the bottom of each of the pieces. This allows me to use the offcuts as forms to hold the bottom of the boat in the right curve to the strongback. In this way the curve of the bottom will match the curve of the backbones. But we are getting ahead of ourselves. We will talk about this later. Just know it is important to follow this direction. Just lay out the rectangular shape of the backbone pieces, as we will be drawing the curve lines in later. Now, cut out those rear backbone pieces. Always measure lots of time, compare the plans, THEN cut. This wood is expensive.
- Do a butt scarf for the two pieces of one of the REAR BACKBONES. I’ve chosen to do the scarf in an area of the backbone that is away from frames and in an area that will be covered by the rear deck. The scarf will not be a prominent visual feature.
- Lay out the frame marks from the rear backbone on the plan onto the plywood, but just with a single line for now. Then, lay out the curve of the bottom of the backbones by marking the depth of the backbone along the frame lines. You will get the measurements from this view on the plans. These are the numbers: 229. 106. 33. 2. 13. Ignore the other numbers for now.
- Insert nails at the point where the frame line meets what will become the bottom curve. Now, using bender board, a long flexible piece of wood trim or the like, hold the board against the nails, clamping the end of the stick to each end of the sheet of plywood. Now, using a pencil, carefully draw a line along that curve. My eight-foot board wasn’t long enough so I had to carefully do this twice. In the image below note that the line along the left side of the board is a leftover error. The line along the right edge of the board is the 53cm section I will use to mount the offcut.
Changes: Notes so I don’t forget.
- Frame Zero
- Do not cut a hole for the tiller. There will be two linked rudders and they will be controlled via lines going to an internal tiller.
- Put a doubling plywood sheet in the center for added Outboard support.
- Figure out if adding a rear cockpit impacts stern dimensions. I don’t think it does.
- Frame One
- Do NOT cut out any large hole until I figure out the arrangement under the decks.
- Companionway will probably be lower, just a couple of inches above rear cockpit floor.
- For the companionway, I will eventually need to add a backing plate for the hatch.
- Frame Two
- Frame Three
- Frame Four
- Frame Five
- Frame Six
- Frame Seven
The original plans call for the boat to be 4.5 meters. Yann Quenet, the designer, also drew up a set with the total length at 5 meters, which is what I am building. Follow the YANN link to see the plans page. Reminder, the plan details assume you are a professional builder on this design. I understand his others do not.
The first build was done by Alexandre Badri. Thanks to Bateaux (check this link for a story about this boat) for the use of their images. I’ll always try to link to their article. Let’s give them some traffic as a thank you. And Alexandre, wow, you do nice work!